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Find the right method for your wallpaper
Each Walls Republic wallcovering is hung a little differently, depending on its material. You will find the material on the product page and on your order. Pick yours below to jump to its steps, but read the sections on tools, inspection and wall prep first: they apply to every type.
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Paste-the-wall wallpaper
Our residential wallpaper. Non-woven backing: paste goes on the wall and seams are butted.
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Peel and stick wallpaper
Self-adhesive, so no paste. Panels can be lifted and repositioned as you go.
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Grasscloth and natural
Natural fibers. Heavy-duty clear adhesive on the wall, and gentle handling.
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Wall murals
Panels hung in sequence from a reference line, butted edge to edge.
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Commercial wallcovering
Heavier, larger-scale material. We recommend a professional installer.
Tools and adhesives you'll need
Have everything within reach before you open the paste: once a drop is on the wall, you will not want to stop and look for a blade.
Tools for every wallcovering
- Level or plumb line, and a pencil
- Metal tape measure
- Long straight edge
- Sharp utility knife and plenty of spare blades
- Decorating scissors
- Wallpaper smoother or paperhanger's brush
- Paste roller or brush, and a paint tray
- Sponge and a bucket of clean water
- Clean, lint-free towel
- Drop cloths and a step ladder
Which adhesive for which wallcovering?
| Wallcovering | Adhesive | Where it goes |
|---|---|---|
| Residential non-woven wallpaper | Standard wallpaper paste made for non-woven wallcoverings | On the wall, one section at a time |
| Peel and stick wallpaper | None: it is self-adhesive | Not applicable |
| Grasscloth and natural | Heavy-duty, clear, pre-mixed adhesive with low water content | Evenly on the wall, never on the wallcovering |
| Wall murals | Pre-mixed, medium to heavy weight wallcovering paste | On the wall, one panel at a time |
| Commercial vinyl and non-woven | Pre-mixed, medium to heavy weight wallcovering paste | Generously on the wall |
Before you start: inspect your order and the room
Most installations go well. When problems happen, they almost always trace back to something that could have been caught before the first drop went up.
Check your wallpaper
- Every roll has the same reference number and batch number, so the color matches from drop to drop
- For a mural, every panel is there, in order, with no imperfections
- You have unrolled and inspected each roll or panel in good light: color, print, pattern and edges
- You have dry-laid a few drops on the floor to see how the pattern lines up
- You have photographed the rolls, labels and batch numbers before starting
Check the room
- Painting is finished, ceilings before walls, and fresh paint has fully cured: allow 7 to 14 days, not just until it is dry to the touch
- Temperature and humidity are stable, with heating or air conditioning running steadily rather than switching on and off
- The rolls have been in the room for at least 24 hours, so they have adjusted to its temperature and humidity
- Furniture is moved away and the floor is covered with drop cloths
- Power is off to any outlets and switches you will be working around
How to prepare your walls for wallpaper
Wallpaper does not hide wall imperfections: it shows them. The wall must be smooth, sound, clean and completely dry before any adhesive goes on. Time spent here makes every later step easier.
- Remove fixtures. Turn off the power, then take off switch plates, outlet covers, picture hooks and any fixtures that are not permanent.
- Strip and clean. Remove old wallcoverings and any peeling or chipped paint. Wash off dust, grease and stains, rinse with clean, warm water and let the wall dry.
- Repair. Fill cracks and holes with spackling or drywall compound, let it dry, then sand smooth. On new drywall, the joints must be taped, bedded and sanded.
- Dull glossy paint. Sand gloss and semi-gloss paint to take off the shine, so the adhesive has something to grip.
- Prime. Apply a wallpaper primer, or an adhesion-promoting primer over glossy paint. For grasscloth and commercial wallcoverings, aim for an even, uniform color: a patchy wall can show through.
- Check for moisture. The wall must be completely dry. For commercial installations, check with a moisture meter that moisture does not exceed 4%. If you find mold or mildew, have the cause fixed by a qualified expert before you hang anything.
Measure, plan and cut your drops
Measure before you order, so all your rolls come from one batch. Our wall measuring guide covers standard walls, sloped walls, staircases and rooms with doors and windows, and every product page has a wallpaper calculator.
Know your pattern match
| Pattern match | What it means | What to plan for |
|---|---|---|
| Straight match | The design lines up horizontally across every drop | Each drop starts at the same point in the pattern |
| Drop match | The design shifts vertically on alternate drops | More waste per drop, and alternating start points |
| Random match | No alignment is needed | The least waste |
Cutting the drops
- Measure the height. Measure the wall from ceiling to baseboard. Your first drop is that height plus 4", the same allowance as in our measuring guide, so there is about 2" spare at the top and bottom to trim.
- Find the top. Do not assume the outside end of the roll is the top: it is not always. Check which way the pattern runs and mark the back of each drop with a T.
- Place the motif. With a bold design, decide where a complete motif should sit (at the ceiling line, at eye level or centered) and cut the first drop so it lands there once trimmed.
- Add the repeat. For every following drop, add the pattern repeat to the length so the pattern matches the drop beside it. The repeat and match type are listed on each product page.
- Cut, then number. Cutting all your drops before you hang makes it easier to match each one to the last. Number them on the back in hanging order.
How to hang paste-the-wall wallpaper
Walls Republic residential wallpapers have a non-woven backing, so you paste the wall, not the paper. There is no soaking or folding, it is close to twice as fast as the traditional paste-the-paper method, and a drop that is not quite right can be slid into place while the paste is wet.
- Choose your starting point. Start in the least noticeable corner, such as behind a door. For a bold pattern on a feature wall, start from the center of the wall, or a focal point such as a chimney breast, so the design sits symmetrically.
- Draw a vertical line. Few walls or corners are truly straight, so hang every drop against a line, never against the corner. Measure out from the corner the width of a roll minus ¼", and draw a plumb line there with a level.
- Paste one section. Roll or brush paste onto the wall, a little wider than one drop. Paste one section at a time, never the whole wall.
- Hang the first drop. Position the top with about 2" over the ceiling line, line the edge up with your plumb line and let the extra ¼" wrap around the corner. Smooth from the middle outwards and downwards to push out air bubbles and creases.
- Check the first drop. The first drop sets the vertical, the pattern and the seams for the whole room. If it is not right, nothing after it will be, so check it carefully before you go on.
- Hang the next drops. Paste the next section, then slide each drop up against the last so the pattern matches and the edges meet in a tight butt joint. Do not overlap the edges or stretch the paper to close a gap.
- Trim the top and bottom. Press the paper into the ceiling and baseboard line and trim along a straight edge with a sharp blade, changing it often. Or crease the line with the back of your scissors, peel the paper back slightly, cut and brush it back into place.
- Wipe off any paste. Clean paste off the face of the paper, the ceiling and the trim straight away with a clean, damp sponge, rinsing it often.
Corners, windows, doors and outlets
These are the spots where mistakes are most visible and hardest to fix, so slow down here.
Inside and outside corners
Inside corners: never hang a full drop around a corner, because corners are rarely straight. Measure from the last drop into the corner at the top, middle and bottom, add about ¼" (5 to 10 mm) to the widest measurement and cut a drop to that width. Hang it so the extra wraps onto the next wall. Then draw a plumb line on the next wall at the width of the offcut, and hang the offcut against it so it overlaps slightly into the corner. Use an overlap or border adhesive where vinyl overlaps vinyl.
Outside corners: wrap the drop about 1" around the corner and smooth it tight. Hang the next drop on a new plumb line so it overlaps the wrapped edge, then cut through both layers along a straight edge and remove the offcuts for a flush seam.
Windows and doors
Hang the drop over the frame and smooth it up to the casing. Make a diagonal cut from the edge of the paper to the corner of the frame, press the paper into the edge of the casing, and trim along it with a sharp blade.
Outlets and switches
- Turn off the power to the outlet or switch, and remove its cover.
- Hang over it. Hang the drop as normal and smooth it gently over the fitting.
- Make diagonal cuts. Pierce the paper at the center of the opening and cut diagonally out to about 1" past each corner.
- Trim the opening. Trim the flaps along the edges of the opening, or place the cover on top, lightly mark its outline and cut around it. The extra 1" gives you room to work without tearing.
- Replace the cover. Screw the cover back on: it hides the cut corners.
How to hang peel and stick wallpaper
Peel and stick wallpaper is self-adhesive, so there is no paste. Panels can be lifted and repositioned while you hang, which makes it the easiest type to install yourself. Browse peel and stick wallpaper.
- Prepare the wall. It must be smooth, clean, dry and properly prepared. Do not apply peel and stick over existing wallpaper or a heavily textured wall. Self-adhesive backings are the most sensitive to fresh paint, so allow at least two weeks after painting, and ideally four.
- Draw a plumb line. Mark a vertical line for the first panel with a level, just as you would for any wallpaper.
- Start at the top. Peel back the top foot or so of the backing. Line the panel up with your plumb line, leaving a little extra at the ceiling, and press it on from the center outwards.
- Peel and smooth. Pull the backing away gradually from behind while you smooth downwards with a wallpaper smoother, working out air bubbles. If a panel goes on crooked, lift it and reposition it.
- Match the next panel. Line up the pattern with the previous panel and smooth the seam down firmly.
- Trim. Trim the excess at the ceiling and baseboard along a straight edge with a sharp blade.
How to hang grasscloth and natural wallcoverings
Grasscloth and other natural wallcoverings are handcrafted from natural fibers, so slight variations in weave, texture and color are expected. They are part of the look, not defects. These materials need gentler handling than standard wallpaper. For styling ideas, read our grasscloth installation tips.
- Check the run. Confirm every roll is from the same run or lot, and compare their color side by side before you cut.
- Prime the wall. The wall should be clean, smooth, dry, firm and a uniform color, primed with a quality wallpaper primer.
- Use the right adhesive. Use a heavy-duty, clear, pre-mixed adhesive with low water content, and apply it evenly to the wall, not to the wallcovering.
- Keep the face clean. Do not let adhesive get on the face or the edges of the material.
- Smooth gently. Press the material into place with gentle pressure rather than hard strokes.
How to install a wall mural
Murals come in panels that go up in sequence. Each mural is printed to the dimensions you order, plus a 4" allowance for trimming, which is why the panels should never be trimmed before they are hung. Hanging one is easier with two people: one to position each panel, one to smooth it.
Before you hang a mural
- You have every panel, and none has imperfections
- The panels are laid out in order, so you can see how the design runs
- The wall is bare: never hang a mural over existing wallpaper
- The panels are not pre-trimmed: your wall or ceiling line may not be square
- Your reference lines, measurements and tools are ready before you paste
Hanging the panels
- Plan the placement. If the mural is not wall to wall, decide where it will sit. Its dimensions are listed in the product specifications.
- Mark the start. Lightly mark the top-left corner of the mural on the wall in pencil.
- Draw the first line. Measure the width of the first panel from that mark and draw a vertical line there with a level. The first panel goes against this line, leaving its outer edge to trim at the end.
- Paste the wall. Apply a pre-mixed, medium to heavy weight paste to the wall for the first panel with a brush or roller.
- Hang the first panel. Place it against your line, pat it into place and smooth it vertically with a wallpaper smoother to remove air bubbles.
- Add the panels in order. Paste and hang each panel flush against the last with a tight butt joint. Do not overlap them.
- Check after three panels. Make sure the pattern and color line up. If you have any concerns, stop and contact us before you continue.
- Trim and clean. Once every panel is up, trim the ceiling and baseboard edges along a straight edge with a sharp blade, changing it often and never cutting into the wall. Remove excess paste with clean, warm water and a sponge before it dries, then pat dry with a clean towel.
How to install commercial wallcovering
Our commercial wallcoverings are a heavier material supplied at a larger scale, so we recommend a professional installer. These are the requirements to share with yours. For scheduling and site planning, see our commercial wallpaper installation guide.
Site requirements
- The wall is smooth, solid, dry and an even white color
- Wall moisture content is no more than 4% on a moisture meter
- Any mold or mildew has been fully corrected by a qualified expert
- New drywall is taped, bedded, sanded and primed
- Pattern, color, quantity (rolls or linear yards) and batch number are confirmed before hanging
Hanging method
- Mark a reference line. Draw a straight vertical line in pencil with a plumb line or level.
- Start past the corner. Do not start in the seam of a corner: let the first drop overlap about 1" onto the adjoining wall.
- Paste generously. Apply a generous coat of paste to the wall with a brush or foam roller, and hang the first drop against your line.
- Smooth vertically. Work a wallpaper smoother down the drop to remove air bubbles and imperfections.
- Overlap and double cut vinyl. Overlap the next drop by 1" and cut through both layers along a straight edge. Remove the excess from above and below, then re-paste and smooth the edges into a seamless joint.
- Butt join non-woven. For non-woven commercial wallcoverings, do not overlap: butt each drop tightly against the last so they form their own seam.
- Check after three drops. If anything looks wrong, stop and contact us before you continue.
- Trim and clean. Cut along the ceiling, the baseboards and the inside corners, changing blades often. Remove paste with warm, clean water and a natural sponge before it dries, then dry with a clean towel.
After installation: drying, care and replacement
Let it settle
Wipe wet paste off as you hang, but once the room is finished, leave the wallpaper alone while the adhesive cures: touching, cleaning or adjusting it too early can damage it. Fine seam lines usually settle as the adhesive dries. Keep the room at a steady temperature and humidity in the meantime.
Once it has cured, dust the wallpaper with a soft, dry cloth. If the product specifications say it is washable, lift marks with a damp sponge rather than scrubbing.
Replacing and removing wallpaper
Well-installed premium wallpaper lasts 7 to 10 years or more. Replace it when the edges start lifting, the colors fade, the design feels dated, or you are planning wall repairs.
Non-woven wallpaper is designed to come off easily. If the product specifications list it as strippable, lift a corner of each drop and peel it away from the wall, then wash off any adhesive left behind. Remove peel and stick slowly, pulling it back at a low angle close to the wall.
Troubleshooting common wallpaper problems
Most problems show up in the first few drops, which is when they are easiest to fix. If the material itself looks wrong, stop and contact us rather than carrying on.
| Problem | Likely cause | Fix |
|---|---|---|
| Bubbles under the paper | Air trapped while smoothing, or paste spread unevenly | Smooth from the center outwards while the paste is wet. Once dry, slit the bubble with a sharp blade, work in a little paste and smooth it flat |
| Seams lifting | Too little paste at the edges, or paste dried before the drop went up | Lift the edge, add a little paste or seam adhesive, press it down and wipe clean |
| Gaps at the seams | Drops not butted tightly, or paper stretched while smoothing | Slide the drop against its neighbor while the paste is wet. Do not pull the paper to close a gap |
| Pattern does not line up | First drop not plumb, or drops cut without adding the repeat | Check your plumb line and cut lengths. If the print itself is misaligned, stop and contact us |
| Color differs between drops | Rolls from different batches, or a drop hung upside down | Check batch numbers and the T marks before hanging more, then contact us |
| Paste marks on the face | Paste left to dry on the surface | Wipe paste off straight away with a clean, damp sponge, rinsing it often |
| Torn or ragged edges | A dull blade | Change the blade often. Snap-off blades make this easy |
| Wrinkles in a corner | A full drop hung around the corner | Cut the drop at the corner and hang it in two pieces against a new plumb line |
DIY or hire a professional installer?
Simple installations do not need experience, just patience and accuracy. DIY works best for a feature wall or a small area, for plain, low-repeat or peel and stick wallpaper, and on smooth, square, well-prepared walls.
We recommend a professional for murals, patterned and textured wallpapers, large areas or several rooms, uneven walls, high ceilings, commercial wallcoverings, and whenever you want a flawless finish.
How to spot a qualified installer
- Asks which wallpaper you chose, and about its pattern and texture, before quoting
- Asks when the walls were painted, and about humidity, temperature and how the room is used
- Knows the differences between non-woven, vinyl, textile, mural and peel and stick wallcoverings, and the adhesive each needs
- Inspects the walls, or photos of them, before starting
- Photographs the rolls, batch numbers and first panel
- Can tell you exactly when they would stop an installation
The Wallcovering Installers Association has more advice on hiring a paperhanger.
Making a claim
Like other premium wallpaper brands, we need the following to review a claim fairly:
- Clear photos or videos of the issue
- Photos from before and during installation
- Batch numbers and your order number
- Your installer's details
- The adhesive used
- Confirmation that the installation instructions were followed
Claims are generally declined if installation continued after a defect was noticed, the room was completed despite visible issues, the wall conditions were unsuitable, the wrong adhesive was used, or the instructions were not followed. If a claim is approved, we replace or refund the product in line with our policy. Timing depends on stock or made-to-order production, and refunds can take several weeks to process.
Wallpaper installation FAQ
Should you put paste on the wall or the wallpaper?
It depends on the backing. Non-woven wallpaper, murals, grasscloth and our commercial wallcoverings are all hung by pasting the wall, and peel and stick needs no paste at all. Pasting the wall is quicker and cleaner than pasting the paper, and you can slide each drop into position while the paste is wet.
Do I need to prime walls before wallpapering?
Yes, we recommend it. Primer gives the adhesive an even surface to grip and makes the wallpaper easier to remove later. Use an adhesion-promoting primer over glossy paint, and aim for a uniform color under grasscloth and commercial wallcoverings.
Can you hang wallpaper on textured walls?
Texture shows through wallpaper and weakens adhesion, so smooth the wall first: sand it, or skim coat it with joint compound, then prime. Peel and stick wallpaper should not go on heavily textured walls.
Can you put wallpaper over existing wallpaper?
No. Remove old wallcoverings and any loose or chipped paint first, then repair, sand and prime the wall. Murals and peel and stick wallpaper must never go over existing wallpaper.
Can you wallpaper over painted walls?
Yes, as long as the paint is sound and fully cured. Fresh paint needs 7 to 14 days, not just until it is dry to the touch, or it can trap moisture and cause the adhesive to fail. Sand glossy paint and prime first.
Where do you start when hanging wallpaper?
In the least noticeable corner, such as behind a door. For a bold pattern on a feature wall, start from the center so the design is symmetrical. Either way, hang the first drop against a vertical plumb line, not against the corner.
How do I work out how much wallpaper I need?
Measure the width and height of each wall, then use the wallpaper calculator on the product page, which adds a 15% buffer for trimming and pattern matching (choose 20% for a large pattern repeat). Our wall measuring guide covers sloped walls, staircases and rooms with doors and windows.
Is wallpaper hard to install? Can I do it myself?
Wallpaper installation is not difficult, but it is precise. A feature wall with plain, low-repeat or peel and stick wallpaper is a good DIY project. For murals, bold patterns, large or uneven walls and commercial wallcoverings, a professional installer gives noticeably better results.
How do you hide wallpaper seams?
Start from a true plumb line, butt each drop tightly against the last without stretching the paper, smooth the edges firmly and wipe off any paste straight away. Fine seam lines usually settle as the adhesive cures.
Is peel and stick wallpaper easy to install?
Yes, it is the easiest type to hang yourself. There is no paste, and panels can be repositioned while you work. It still needs a smooth, clean, properly prepared wall and a plumb line for the first panel.
Can you put wallpaper in a bathroom or kitchen?
Yes, with the right wallpaper and good ventilation. Bathrooms, kitchens and coastal homes need extra care: choose a durable, moisture-resistant vinyl, keep it away from direct water, and keep humidity as stable as you can.
How long does wallpaper take to dry?
It depends on the adhesive, the wall and the room, so follow the instructions on your paste. Do not clean, touch or hang anything on new wallpaper until the adhesive has fully cured.
What if I run short on wallpaper during Installation?
Not sure you ordered enough? If you have miscalculated the quantity for your project, contact us and our team will help you sort it out.
What should I do if my wallpaper looks defective?
Stop installing straight away and do not finish the room. Take photos of the issue and the roll labels, note your batch numbers, and contact us. Wallpaper that has been hung is considered accepted, so check every roll before it goes on the wall.
How long does wallpaper last?
Well-installed premium wallpaper lasts 7 to 10 years or more.
Need a hand?
Talk to a wallpaper specialist
Not sure which method or adhesive you need, briefing an installer, or seeing something that does not look right? Our specialists offer pre-purchase consultations and installation guidance.